The remote outpost of Drake Bay is teeming with life — and not with tourists.
A wild chestnut-mandibled toucan sits on a branch in Drake Bay, on the Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica. By M.L. Lyke March 6 Squawking parrots fly tree to tree, waking up the little village of Drake Bay on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula. They’re right on time, shortly after 5 a.m., a fine hour to get up and enjoy the cool of morning before heat and humidity set in.
Flying in a prop plane from San Jose to Drake Bay’s small domestic airport is relatively easy. But most people come by boat from the docks of Sierpe, a small, sleepy town a little more than an hour’s boat ride north. It’s cheaper, and the breathtaking boat journey, with wet-exit finale, offers a proper introduction to this wild corner of the world.
The up-and-down jungle trail I hike in the morning is a jewel. It leads across a short suspension bridge to a string of pretty coves and beaches. Well-prepared hikers can trek the path for hours one way. I smile when I spot a large steppingstone along the trail that reads: “Costa Rica, un pais de paz y amor.” It’s perfect. Costa Rica, the enlightened nation with no standing army, a literacy rate over 97 percent and about a quarter of its land under protection, is “a country of peace and love.
Gomez charts the activity of bats with a detector that tracks their echolocation. They swoop above our heads like gray shadows as he explains that there are only three species of vampire bats in the world — “and all three are here.” A delicious chill runs down my spine. This, I think, is “nightlife” at its finest.
The first thing he shows us are tapir tracks in the sand, the next a stern committee of redheaded turkey vultures, drying wings spread five feet wide on the beach. A raccoon-like coati-mundi pops up from the scrub, and lizard eyes follow us as we exit the sweltering beach and enter the shaded jungle, searching trees for toucans and macaws and exquisitely painted little birds, such as the black-throated trogon with its yellow breast and swanky, black-and-white patterned tail.
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