Critic piescarcega covers the hits and misses at Nightshade, chef Mei Lin's first restaurant
Szechuan hot quail on Japanese milk bread, served with house pickles from Nightshade, the new restaurant from chef Mei Lin. tofu lasagna, a slinky block of egg noodles layered with a Sichuan pepper-infused pork ragù and filaments of tofu cream. The ragù is subtle — the most decadent thing on the plate is the fuzzy handful of Parmesan cheese sprinkled over it — and what you will remember most are the noodles: fine, accordion-like pleats, delicate as dumpling wrappers.
Nightshade is Lin's first restaurant, airy and warm and tucked into a former loading dock that most recently housed the Mexican restaurant Cerveteca DTLA. The 60-seat dining room is a West Elm catalog sprung to life, decked out with serene touches of blond wood, hanging greenery and plush midcentury-inspired furnishings.
Koshihikari rice congee; Szechuan hot quail; mapo tofu lasagna; tom yum onion with coconut dip; and coconut mousse from Nightshade, a new restaurant from chef-owner Mei Lin. Szechuan hot quail served on a thick slice of Japanese milk bread reckons with both the primacy of Howlin' Ray’s and the haunting properties of Sichuan peppercorns. The meat is memorably succulent under the hellfire of that chile heat.
Not everything works as well. Her take on the bloomin’ onion, the goofy stalwart from the pseudo-Australian-but-actually-American chain, is dusted in a tangypowder and served with an airy, lime-inflected whipped coconut ranch sauce that recalls the flavor of melted lime sherbet. The flavors are big and bold, but I found them jarring and incompatible.
Chef and owner of Nightshade, Mei Lin, works with her crew during dinner service at her new downtown Los Angeles restaurant. may very well be the best thing in the house: a thick, molten swirl of XO sauce, pork floss, crisped-up scallions and egg. The flavor builds exponentially, hits of savoriness and spice brilliantly intersecting in different ways from one spoonful to the next.
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