Calling Daniel and Caitlin Cutler’s first project a “small plates and pizza restaurant” is accurate enough, but the rangy, charismatic cooking also defies easy labeling. Our critic's review:
Does the notion of a calzone crossed with a French dip sandwich sound like sheer gimmickry? Daniel Cutler runs with the idea and manages to transcend hokum at his Fairfax restaurant Ronan.He appears so confident in the deliciousness of his creation, “The Philippe,” that he makes no efforts at beautification. The thing lands on the table resembling a giant sea cucumber, its formless mass blackened and pocked.
I’m an apologist for the calzone, too often the overlooked kid on the playground while pizza is chosen for all the teams. But this weird, wonderful anomaly charms every person I bring here. The dish summarizes the endearingly goofy wit and the Angeleno pride that Cutler ingrains in his cooking.
For spring, there are sardines, wisps of Ibérico ham and mashed peas tumbled atop the restaurant’s excellent crusty bread. For whimsy, there is Wellington in deconstructed carpaccio form; it’s a stunning, swirling presentation of shaved dry-aged beef as opulent as silk drapes, with buttery crunch from puff pastry and depth from earthy creamed mushrooms.
इंडिया ताज़ा खबर, इंडिया मुख्य बातें
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