APL in Hollywood falls back on the most quintessential steakhouse trope: the shiny, masculine clubhouse. How’s the food? Read critic BillAddison’s review.
I can’t say that our server at APL, the Hollywood steakhouse owned by barbecue maestro Adam Perry Lang, exactly talked our table into ordering $300 worth of beef for three people. But she praised the menu’s two largest and most expensive meat-a-paloozas with such gusto that it felt like professional negligence on my partto heed her advice. Sure enough, these mammoths fulfilled the vital steakhouse tenet: They activated our most animalistic eating instincts.
APL is not one of those places. It falls back on the most quintessential steakhouse trope: the shiny, masculine clubhouse. The restaurant is steps from the intersection of Hollywood and Vine. Note the sidewalk-embedded stars for Audrey Hepburn and Dick Gregory as you walk from the street and right into the dining room, a runway of white and black tiling surrounded by navy-gray walls, gold curtains, bronze booths, marble and mixed woods.
Minus the beef on which Perry Lang justly prides himself, a lavish dinner at APL doesn’t hold in the center. This came into sharp focus during an unfortunate experience in late January, when I happened to dine at the restaurant on a night its broiler system had gone down; the only steak available was a filet mignon.
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