Review: This New York restaurant sets the standard for American fine dining, TomSietsema writes
Executive chef Dan Barber, center right, and chef Bastien Guillochon, center left. By Tom Sietsema Tom Sietsema Food critic Email Bio Follow Food critic April 24 at 10:00 AM Profiling has become a dirty word in this country. But if a case can be made for extrapolating information about people, the staff at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, N.Y., could serve as Exhibit A.
“Vegetables from the garden,” a server announces the first course, a slender piece of wood showcasing delicate pieces of endive, bok choy, purple cauliflower and radishes, each held aloft on a thread-thin prong, and each ready-to-eat with a brush of lemon vinaigrette. A grand centerpiece in the middle of the dining room brings the outside in, too.
The young men and women dropping off these one- and two-bite wonders appear to have been recruited from the model ranks of IMC. Some are smoother or chattier than others. Not all have front-of-the-house experience. At any point in the meal, the person introducing you to a dish could be one of the kitchen’s 40 cooks — the best guides, given that they’ve likely foraged, and definitely prepared, what you’re eating.
Given everything that’s come before it, our entree proves a surprise. It’s simply a piece of pork framed with some bitter radicchio and not much else. Barber later tells me he was inspired after eating at the novel El Bulli in Spain and encountering steamed shrimp after a parade of head-spinning dishes. His point: If an ingredient is perfect, “I can’t do anything to make it better.
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