WINE | Could it possibly be any good?
Playboy California Red Wine Blend. By Dave McIntyre Dave McIntyre Bio Follow March 8 at 12:00 PM The email landed in my inbox in early February, announcing a new wine released “just in time for Valentine’s Day.” I nearly ignored it, along with the other daily offerings of new exciting products and ideas for articles on travel, cocktails, exotic diseases and other things I don’t write about.
Were there “flavors of cherry and dark fruits” and spice notes of vanilla and toasty oak on the finish, as the press release boasted? Perhaps. I was impressed by the wine’s balance of fruit and acidity. It was lighter than I expected, rather than the heavy, confected wines all too common these days. The wine industry would have us celebrate the artisan vintner, farming land her family has toiled for generations, crafting distinctive wines from grapes grown biodynamically, organically or sustainably without pesticides or herbicides and tended preferably on horseback, fermented by no added yeast other than the toe jam of the vineyard workers who trod the grapes, and ultimately “curated” by hipster sommeliers who — well, you get the picture.
That’s why importers contract with local cooperative wineries in Europe or elsewhere to produce private label wines. Costco’s Kirkland brand, Trader Joe’s, and Walmart’s W winemaker select labels are examples of retail chains producing private label wines that often show well against others in their price range.
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